Legacy Sailing
Photo Gallery 64
The Panama Canal - Crossing a Continent in Only One Day!
We arrived in Panama City shortly after the New Year after tearing ourselves away from the Perlas and got right to work preparing for our transit of the canal. After two weeks of provisioning, laundry, chores, boat projects, and other intense preparations, our transit date arrived. We had a very easy, uneventful, one-day transit through the Panama Canal. Once through the final lock, about 5 p.m., we dropped off our transit advisor and headed for Shelter Bay Marina, where we had a slip reserved. Heather's brother Russ captured all the web cam still pictures from the Canal and turned them into a 5 minute movie of our passage. You can view it at: http://gallery.me.com/tardiflr/100039

Shelter Bay is a new, upscale marina filled with megayachts and large sailboats. The cruisers are from all over the world, many headed through the Canal and on to the South Pacific. There is a much larger proportion of catamarans (mostly 45 to 50 feet) than we've seen elsewhere in our travels. Here at Shelter Bay, we've taken full advantage of being alongside a dock (and fresh water hose!) for the first time since Nicaragua last March.
Panama City - Getting Ready
The mooring field for the Balboa Yacht Club is just seaward of the Bridge of the Americas.
There was constant coming and going from the Balboa Yacht Club dock as work boats picked up and delivered crew and supplies 24 hours per day.
No dinghies are allowed at the Balboa Yacht Club so one is limited to waiting for the launch to come or go. Here you can see the floating dock and see one of the cayucos practicing for the big race.
The day of the big cayuco race came and the starters lined up under the Balboa yacht Club dock. On the signal they all took off heading all the way out to Flaminco Island and back to the Yacht Club.
The same day as the cayuco races cruisers held a swap meet and a ham radio test. Lots of Panamanians and cruisers came and looked. Heather sold several copies of her book to other cruisers.  
 
Practice Transit - s/v Ave Maria
Aboard the 51 foot Cheoy Lee Ave Maria is skipper Paul and another linehandler, Ted. I went along on Ave Maria's transit to get a feel for the conditions to be expected during our transit.
When we reached the Miraflores Locks we were told to raft alongside a small passenger boat, the Pacific Queen. In the lock ahead of us was a small freghter. We locked up in the same configuration through both locks at Miraflores and the single lock at Pedro Miguel.
Two of the other linehandlers, Houston and Gail from Blew Moon (Virginia). Houston is a retired nuclear submarine commander, but none-the-less, a very approachable and likable fellow. The view is back towards the Culebra Cut and the Centennial Bridge beyond it.
We didn't arrive at the Gatun Locks early enough to transit so had to sit out almost 24 hours on a mooring nearby. The next afternoon a new Advisor was delivered aboard and we proceeded through the Gatun Locks. Here Chris poses as the locks open between the second and third locks.
Looking over the top of the final lock before it is drained we can look out over Limon Bay and into the Caribbean.  
 
Leaving the Pacific - Miraflores Locks
Most boats transiting the Canal do so festooned with with used tires wrapped in plastic bags (to protect the hull from black marks). Legacy was no exception. She had eight tires lashed along each side, four of which were doubled up for a total of 24 tires!
Early in the morning after we have collected our Canal Advisor we pass under the Bridge of the Americas. Our last glimpse of the Pacific for some time.
Along the edge of the channel leading to the Miraflores Locks is a huge container terminal. Containers are unloaded on one side of the canal and shipped to the other side on the Panama Canal Railroad and reloaded on other ships at the Colon side.
At the entrance of the Miraflores Locks both locks were operating in the North direction. Here a large ship is moved into position by a tug.
Once the ship is in position messenger lines are passed to the ship and heavy cables from the electric locomotives are fixed to the ship so it can be towed through the locks. Although many methods have been tried, still the most effective way to pass the messenger line is for the lockmen to row out and toss the line.
Rob from s/v Yohela keeps watch on the foredeck as we enter the first lock at Miraflores. The locks are truly immense from the perspective of a small boat.
As with the practice transit I made the week before we were rafted alongside a charter boat that went directly alongside the wall. Unusually we and Cheers were all along in the gigantic lock. The ship that had been scheduled for that lock was unable to meet the schedule for some reason we never discovered. Rob hands one of our lines across to the crew of Cheers after they have tied to the wall.
One of the most interesting parts of the canal are the electric locomotives used to pull ships through the locks. Here one comes down the ramp from one level of the Miraflores locks to the other. Note the crowd of workers riding along. Some wag suggested that they all needed to put their hands in the air like passengers on a roller coaster!
Oscar, our Canal Advisor instructs the linehandlers and helmsman in maneuvering the vessel during the passage. In the background Fabrizio, our last minute Italian linehandler talks on his cell phone as he waits for the next round of activity.
Once alongside Cheers in the lock there is not much action as the linehandlers on that boat have to do all the work. Even the Skipper is able to relax for a few minutes.
Rob and Teresa from Yohela took advantage of the slow times to take pictures and videos of the locks. Rob and Teresa are headed for the South Pacific in a few months but wanted to make a Canal Transit before they left.
After the first lock filled the gates opened, we untied from Cheers, and then motored forward into the second chamber where the entire procedure was repeated.
As water is let in to fill the locks there is tremendous turbulence. Each lock requires 56 millon gallons of water to cycle one time. The usual time to move all that water is only 8 minutes!
There are web-cams at the Miraflores Locks. Here we are motoring into the second lock close behind Cheers. Once were are both in the lock and the gates are closed, water from Miraflores Lake is let in to fill the lock.
After the lock is filled the gates are opened and we motor out into Miraflores Lake. About a mile across Miraflores Lake you can see the single Pedro Miguel Lock in the distance. We motored over there and repeated the whole process with Cheers one more time.
The crews were relaxed and exchanged greetings and jokes between the boats.
After leaving the Miraflores Locks we motored the short distance to the Pedro Miguel Lock behind Cheers and repeated the whole process once again.
As water fills the Pedro Miguel Lock we are able to see over the gate and catch a glimpse of the spectacular Centennial Bridge in the background.
 
Between the Locks - Lake Gatun
As soon as we pop out of the Pedro Miguel Lock we are confronted by massive earth moving efforts. The Canal is being widened and a "third lane" is being built. This new set of locks will be twice as wide as the present locks and almost 50% longer to handle newer and bigger ships.
The soaring Centennial Bridge crosses the canal just as it enters the Galliard and Culebra Cuts. These were the giant cuts through the mountains that make the Canal possible. In order to accomodate the larger ships in the third lane they are nearly doubling the size of the original excavations through this area.
Cruising through the Canal was pretty relaxing except around the locks. Heather and Kira take a turn steering with the remote while sitting in the shade of the cockpit awning.
Looking back at the spectacular span of the Centennial Bridge from the north side of Galliard Cut.
Legacy encounters the first of the big boat traffic coming from the Caribbean side. This large cruise ship is followed by a freighter.
The Panama Canal Railroad runs along the shore of the Canal at Gamboa where it crosses the inlet of the Chagres River into Lake Gatun. Here it is hauling containers toward the Panama City end of the Canal.
Oscar, our excellent transit advisor, keeps an eye on things from the stern. In his regular job with the Canal he is the head of the maritime safety office of the canal.
Rick, one of our line handlers, catches a few winks as we cruise across Lake Gatun.
Heading across Lake Gatun gave everyone a chance to relax for awhile. Chris and Minnow join Rob and Teresa on the foredeck to enjoy the view. Minnow enjoyed having her ears flap in the strong headwinds.
Oscar had us take Banana Cut, the small boat shortcut, as we neared the end of Lake Gatun. It was marked by red and green balls rather than large marks.
 
Entering the Caribbean - Gatun Locks
The foredeck crew watches as we motor slowly into Gatun Locks. We were early and the ship scheduled to downlock with us was not present so Oscar had us go into the approach to the lock and moor to the wall temporarily.
Everything in the Canal is massive, including this rubber bumper designed to protect the concrete corner from wayward ships.
Rob and Rick wait for the signal to cast off lines while we wait along the staging dock near the Gatun Locks.
Oscar keeps a close eye on things as Chris steers us alongside the dock. Chris was forced to peer through a small slot forward because we were required to have the cockpit shade up for the comfort of the Advisor. Chris said it was like trying to steer while looking out the slit in the front of a tank.
As we motor into the lock Rob stands on the foredeck ready to hand the bow line off to the lockman.
The canal line handler drops the loop of our line around a bollard on the side of the lock. Because the lock is full we are conveniently at the same level as the top of the lock.
The control building for the Gatun Locks sits on the divider between the two sets of locks. Note the 1913 date on the building.
Locomotives pull the Uruguay Star into the first of the Gatun Locks behind us.
Watching the locomotives along the locks was one of the most interesting parts of the transit. Here you can clearly see the two cables that lead from the locomotive to the ship.
Here you can see the tires lashed along the toerail and the fenders we put over them to hold Legacy away from the wall as we locked down.
Rob prepares to hold us off the wall as the water drains out of the Gatun Lock.
Oscar relaxes, confident that the down-locking is going well.
This is a web-cam view of the Gatun lock. If you look carefully you can see Legacy's mast sticking up between the bow of the Uruguay Star and the lock gate.
Oscar watches as Legacy heads out of the lock ahead of the Uruguay Star. You can see the locomotive starting down the steep incline between locks. The locomotives use a cog that engages with a center rail to give them traction for the inclines and pulling ships.
Because Chris' visibility out the front was so restricted Teresa sat on the side rail during maneuvers to provide fine tuning as we approached the wall. Oscar also watches as we move forward.
Rick watches the "free boat wash" as water drains out of the lock. Normally the lock walls are sealed, but at this point there is a minor flaw that allows water to seep in through the wall.
Rick and Teresa enjoy the view as the second lock gates open and they can see into the last lock and over the gate into the Caribbean!  
 
Shelter Bay Marina and Colon
Shelter Bay Marina, soon to be the only marina on the Atlantic side of the Canal, is a pricey upscale sort of place. Legacy is on the small end of the boats here. Many large catamarans and megayachts are also here.
The marina is located on the site of former US Army Fort Sherman. The grounds are nicely maintained and very clean.
The marina also has a large work and storage area and a travellift large enough for big catamarans and large motor yachts and sailboats.
The view from our slip is of 226 feet of megayachts. Stern to stern are Sovereign at 140 feet and the nearly new Nordhaven 86 CaryAli.
At the end of our dock is the 112 foot sailboat, Song of the Sea. At night she lights up her mast with a pretty display of spreader lights.
We made two trips into Colon to take our awning for repair and do a little shopping. Colon is so dangerous that one is told NEVER walk, always take a taxi. This shot out the taxi window is typical of the run down condition of the city.
From a distance across Limon Bay Colon looks industrial, but a little nicer. There are efforts to improve the city and make it safer now that they have a cruise ship dock, but we didn't see much evidence that the plan was working.  
 
 
Updated 2/14/2009