Legacy Sailing
Photo Gallery 66
Islas San Blas - Land of the Kuna
After out return from the Rio Chagres we stopped in Shelter Bay to reprovision and prepare for a couple of months with only limited supplies. In company with Dan and Lorraine on SV Zephyrus, we headed first from Colon to Portobelo where we enjoyed a quick tour of the fort. The next day, we headed east to Isla Linton to be in position for the jump to the San Blas. The rough weather had relented for a couple of days so we pushed on to the San Blas Islands 45 miles to the east the next day. The San Blas archipelago are low sandy islets protected by reefs. The reefs stop the large ocean swells, but the low islands allow the breeze (and sometimes the stronger winds) to blow freely. The San Blas Islands are a somewhat autonomous area of Panama known by its Kuna name of Kuna Yala. Many of the Kuna people maintain a traditional life among the islands. For the first two weeks we were in the San Blas we had very windy weather. Most days there was at least 20 knots and many times 30 knots of breeze. This made it difficult to leave the boat to visit the islets as every dinghy ride was guaranteed to be a wet one. The wind eventually dropped enough so that we could explore. We stayed in the West and Easat Lemmons, the West and East Holandes, Cocos Banderas, Chichime, Nargana and Niadup. One of our favorite stops, though one iwth a poor anchorage, was Niadup. Niadup is a very traditional village off the beaten track and visited by few cruisers. We stopped on a recommendation that it was a great place to buy molas, and one where the income was much needed. Heather proved this true when she was escourted around the village by German, the town Secretary, buying up 20 molas, some right off the womans shirt!

Portobelo - Yet Another Spanish Fort
Our first stop after leaving Colon heading for the San Blas was at Portobelo. Portobelo was the departure point for many of the Spanish treasure fleets and has extensive fortifications around the bay.	The fortifications on the north side of the bay include a fort near water level and a battery up the hillside overlooking the anchorage. Chris and the grrlz walk up one of the ramps in the lower fort.
In the fort at Portobelo Heather and our friend Lorraine from Zephyrus relax on a cannon.	The only building still standing in the lower fort is the massively constructed magazine. Entrance is through a gate and along a narrow walk around to the back up against the hill. Chris and the grrlz pose in the entrance.
The roof of the magazine and the wall surrounding it were covered with jungle moss and greenery working to tear it down.	Out the small back gate of the lower fort there was a rock walled trench leading up the hill to the battery. Erosion has made the trench and steps within unusable so we scrambled up a slippery mud path.
At the top of the battery access trench looking back down towards the main fort.	Chris, Dan, and Lorraine take in the view from the battery.
From the battery one can look down into the lower fort as well as across the bay. Matching fortifications on the South side of the Bay helped protect the Spanish fleet.	The cannons of the battery look out over Legacy and Zephyrus. Despite the fortifications British pirates and navy raided the town on several occasions.

West Lemmon Cays, Kuna Yala
In the West Lemmon Cays we saw our first typical Kuna island with neatly brushed and swept grounds, a couple of thatched huts and various other constructions.	This Kuna family visited a Belgian boat in the anchorage and were given bright yellow hats which they wore as they sailed by.
Part of the anchorage at the West Lemmons was quite shallow. This boat went aground moving from one deeper section to another. Cruisers quickly gathered to help. The Kuna cayucas bobbed around watching the crazy gringos rush about.	After some pushing and shoving of the boat that did nothing to get her free it was finally decided to take the halyard off to a dinghy and pull the boat over to reduce her draft.
With the boat heeled over by a pull on the halyard and people hanging on the boom the boat heeled over enough to come free.	Finally free of the bottom the boat makes her way through the anchorage in deeper water.

East Lemmon Cays, Kuna Yala
The Kuna travel throughout Kuna Yala in cayucas (ulus in Kuna) using sail, oar and pole power.	We liked the juxtaposition of the sailboats, the outboard powered dinghy, and the sailing cayuca in the windy East Lemmons.

Holandes Cays, Kuna Yala
The grrlz particularly liked the West Holandes where there were wide clear paths suitable for running about.	Anchored in 'the hot tub' in the East Holandes we enjoyed the pleasant protected anchorage and got to watch the occasional sailing cayuca pass through.
In the Holandes Cays, which are quite far out from the mainland, the water is especially clear. Here you can see the dark anchor chain through the beautiful clear water.	The grrlz enjoying their daily romp which always includes play with their retrieving bumper, "Mr. B."
Behind the hard outer reef, there are vast expanses of shallow sand banks with grass. Chris walks on the banks. The swells can be seen breaking over the outer reef, but no waves reach the calm waters inside.	The warm shallow waters of the banks teem with life, such as whelks. We watched this fellow and his friends wander about in the shallow water. We even encountered some conch that were big enough to break the surface of the water while wandering about.
One of the islands in the Eastern Holandes is nicknamed potluck or bbq island and is the site of weekly cruiser gatherings. Here Dan from Zephyrus closes in on the table full of snacks.	Cruisers gathered to share the news and the snacks. Note the top made of molas which Susan from Nautibear is wearing.
"Los Gringos" brought their instruments and provided background music for the gathering as practice for their upcoming opening night in downtown Nargana later in the week.	Our friends Leslie and David, formerly of the s/v Sunbreak, arrived in the Holandes aboard the new m/v Sunbreak. Sun break is a very nice Ocean Alexander 65 with such goodies as an icemaker!
Although Sunbreak could only visit a few days before their canal transit date we enjoyed seeing them again. Heather and Leslie walking on BBQ island where we let all four dogs run free for a romp.	Leslie and master mola maker Venancio aboard Sunbreak.
We enjoyed many beautiful sunsets while anchored in the "Hot Tub".

Nargana - The Big City
The inhabited islands of the San Blas, like Nargana, tend to be very densely populated. Often the alleys between buildings are barely wide enough to squeeze through.	Buildings take up all available room, all the way to the water, with some structures extending over the water. Very few trees or bushes survive the crowding.

Niadup, Devil Cays
Niadup is a very traditional island in the Devil Cays. Residents are prohibited by the congresso or ruling body from paddling out to visiting boats. Here villagers gather to work around a public building near the dock.	German (on the left) is the secretary to the congresso. He took our $5 anchoring fee, then escorted us from house to house so we could buy molas. We had quite an entourage by the time our shopping spree was over, since Chris was handing out Tootsie Rolls to the kids!

Cocos Banderos Cays
The Coco Bandero Cays are beautifully stereotypical tropical islands -- palm trees, white sand beaches, and clear water in all shades of blue.	Just beyond the anchorage at Coco Bandero was a grim reminder of the consequences of poor navigation -- a freighter stranded and abandoned on the reef.

The Great Banedup Cayuca Regatta
Several vendors displayed molas and other crafts on Banedup to tempt cruisers into purchases.	"Mr. G", the local entrepreneur who organized the regatta brought in fresh produce to resell to the cruisers.
Seven-year-old Josh from Southern Belle had a good time playing with the local kids on Banedup. This Kuna lad spent much time clutching this puppy.	Chris got to ride along on one of the cayucas for the race. He was in a smaller cayuca helmed by an older gentleman and his younger assistant.
And they're off! Several cayucas jockey for position in light winds between Banedup and the adjacent cay. The race course was about 3 miles long around a couple of Cays and back to Banedup.	Chris assists with a paddle as the cayuca owner trims the sail.
Frank from Shared Dreams rode along on another cayuca. Frank ended up paddling with his seat as there was no extra paddle.	Here, another cruiser gets into the spirit of the "anything goes" race. The course took the cayucas around or sometimes over several reefs, some in water only inches deep.
Josh and the local kids hang out on the rickety dock, waiting for the racers to return.	Two cayucas head to the finish, neck and neck. The owner of Chris' cayuca was slyly creeping up on the fleet by traveling in the lee of the island. Most of the crews had to jump out and drag the cayucas across a last sand bank.
Gisela from Shared Dreams and Chris from Akka laugh as they disembark from a large cayuca that carried four gringo women as passengers. They were the winning boat by a only couple of yards.	We loved the contrast of this traditionally-dressed Kuna woman chatting on her cell phone during the race!
Mr. G and his wares. Mr G. went to college in Utah and had very good English. He was also a bit of an entrepreneur running a small tienda, organizing the regatta and welcoming cruisers to his island.	This man was baking delicious Kuna bread in one of the huts on the island. The yeasty smell was irresistible and cruisers bought the bread as fast as he could produce it.
"The Banedup gas station"! Rick from Tara Vana brought his fuel jugs ashore to purchase additional gasoline for the dinghy outboard.	The children were friendly, curious, and not at all camera shy!
One of the visitors stepped on a sea urchin and Mr. G applied first aid to the wound in the form of gasoline poured on the urchin spine to help it dissolve.	Chris and Frank relax under a palm tree to drink beer and swap lies about the race.

Chichime Cays
Chichime is one of the most heavily visited anchorages and the residents swarm out to sell things to the cruisers and seek handouts of candy and toys.	We thought this small cay near Chichime looked like the classic "desert island". This was the grrlz island at Chichime as all the larger islands were occupied and had resident dogs.
A remarkable occurrence -- Chris smiling when a camera is pointed in his direction! Here he adjusts the "lazy jacks" which hold the main sail when it is furled.

Updated 4/18/2009