Legacy Sailing
 Photo Gallery 30  
April - May 2005
La Paz to Loreto, Baja California Sur, MX
After picking up my mother, Joan, in La Paz and spending a few days touristing we headed north up the inside of the Baja Peninsula.

Our first stop was on Isla Partida about 20 miles outside of La Paz.  We stayed one night in a small anchorage called El Cardoncita but found the swell from the coromel winds uncomfortable so moved a mile or so up the island to Ensenada Grande which we found much more comfortable.  In both locations the water was beautifully clear and inviting.

We next headed for Isla San Francisco and an anchorage called 'the hook,' but found it too crowded for comfortable anchoring so continued on another 8 miles to the small village of San Evaristo which has a nice small bay with a couple of anchorages.  We initially stayed at the south end of the main anchorage for protection from the southerlies and westerlies and then moved to Entrance Bay for protection from northerlies when the wind returned to that more normal direction.  Before long all the boats in San Evaristo had moved into that anchorage too.  One evening we had a dessert party for the 13 people off the 6 boats.

When the predicted strong northerlies failed to appear most of us headed north.  We ended up anchoring behind the point at Punta San Telmo and found it to be a nice anchorage with good protection from the north and west.  Sunbreak joined us there and the dogs enjoyed traveling to the beach together. (Photo Leslie Sanguinetti)

After one night at San Telmo we headed another 20 miles north to the beautiful bay at Agua Verde.  We anchored in the east bight since there were only a couple of boats there, but by the next day we had 8 boats crammed in.  We enjoyed several days in the bay visiting the village and other cruisers.  When we headed out we stopped at Honeymoon Cove on Isla Danzante before heading into Puerto Escondido for Loretofest.

Loretofest is a fundraiser by the local yacht club for their charitable works in the area.  We met lots of old and new friends and enjoyed the activities.  Sadly we had to leave Joan off at the airport to return to Boston. :-(  We rented a van with Sunbreak so we four adults and four dogs could travel together and toured the local area.  We made the trip out to San Javier high in the mountains to see the mission church there, and spent time resupplying and touring in Loreto itself.

The waters of Partida are a beautiful aquamarine color and VERY clear.  Great swimming as the girlz demonstrate. (J. Stockard photo) Even anchored in a beautiful spot like Ensenada Grande the work never really ends.  Solar panels don't take much work, but they do benefit from cleaning. (J. Stockard photo)
Just because we are away from town doesn't mean we don't eat well.  Lamb grills for fajitas. (J. Stockard photo) Once we were anchored in San Evaristo a pangureo came by and traded us a cabrillo filleted for batteries.  His son rode along with him.
We all went ashore to see the village.  The dirt road connected the two parts of town.  This dog joined us on the beach and followed us all along our walk staying just out of range of the girlz. The landscape behind the bay is sere and covered with spiny vegetation like these example from the roadside.
As always the girlz attract kids.  As we passed the school the kids came to meet them.  We made a print and took school supplies back the next day.. Over the saddle in the road is the rest of Evaristo.  Salt pans for drying sea salt and a grove of palms and lush growth shelter several homes and a tienda.
The only well constructed building in town is this desalinization plant supplying fresh water. For fans of Gene Kira's book King of the Moon, this is the town soccer field.  We saw no battles to the death however!
20 miles north we stopped at Punta San Telmo.  Manuel came by offering langostino, but failed to deliver that night :-(   (J. Stockard photo) The girlz and the boyz all rode together to the beach so we only had to launch one dinghy.  Here Minnow, Rocky, Skipper and Kira look forward to the rocky landing.
Friends on Quest sent us a nice bucket of clams which Heather turned into pasta sauce. (J. Stockard photo) Two pangeros shared our anchorage.  In the early morn they headed out to fish. (J. Stockard photo)
The skipper always keeps a good eye out on surrounding traffic and landmarks.  Sunbreak motorsails along the mountainous coast between Punta San Telmo and Agua Verde.
Kira always watches out for Heather or Chris whenever they leave the boat.  This is one of the best pictures of her anyone has taken. (J. Stockard photo) Ashore at the community of Agua Verde are many animals, including a herd of goats proudly owned by one of the locals.  His corral is right off the beach. (J. Stockard photo)
One of his new kids entertained Joan, Heather and Leslie until it ran back to hide with mom. (J. Stockard photo) One evening in Agua Verde a couple of cruisers invited everyone to the beach for potluck appetizers.  A crowd of about 30 boaters showed up. (J. Stockard photo)
Many dogs were also in attendance, but bring tied to a dingy (to stay out of the food) is really boring and requires hole digging. (J. Stockard photo) These two enterprising pangeros saw the crowd and arrived ready to sell lobster, scallops, and sea cucumber.  Leslie buys! (J. Stockard photo)
The same evening we were treated to a beautiful sunset.  Each boat seemed to have viewers on deck. (J. Stockard photo) After leaving Agua Verde we stopped at Honeymoon Cove on Isla Danzante.  Joan enjoyed kayaking in the clear waters. (J. Stockard photo)
Entering the harbor at Puerto Escondido the API building and the tents set up for Loretofest were seen in front of the Sierra Gigante. (J. Stockard photo) Running on sharp oyster shells inflicted numerous cuts on Kira's feet so she had them cleaned and wears socks to keep them clean. (J. Stockard photo)
At the Saturday evening Loretofest spaghetti dinner the local Folklorico group performed traditional dances from several Mexican states. (J. Stockard photo) The dancers had great fun and gave a spirited performance much appreciated by the cruisers in attendance. (J. Stockard photo)
We rented a van with Sunbreak so digs and all could tour a bit.  Heading for the mission at San Javier we chanced upon an oasis with prehistoric pictographs. Despite the very arid surroundings a small stream flowed at the bottom of the arroyo.  The water fed a thriving community of grasses, palms and other green plants.
We also spotted many wild geraniums growing in crack in the rocks. Further along the road one can look back through the canyon we ascended past Loreto and out onto the Sea of Cortez.
The mission at San Javier was one of the earliest, established in 1697.  It was relocated out of the cropland and this building was built starting in 1744 of local stone. A long stone paved plaza leads to the front of the mission.  The rear backs up to the orchards and fields.  From the back the bell tower and graveyard wall are striking.
Each of the doorways and all of the windows of the mission are unique.  The water in the arroyo supported fruit, onion, and other crops. (Current onion production is 400 tons!) The church is long, narrow, and tall with graceful arches leading to the alter at the front.
The ceiling is figured with mortar stars and patterns that still show traces of colored paint. The alter and statue of San Javier were transported from Mexico City by ship and burro in the 1700s.  Spectacular!
Updated 11/14/2006